Sunday, May 29, 2016

Kodachrome Basin State Park

If you want to feel old, go to Kodachrome Basin State Park because right off the bat there is an explanation to the general public of what Kodachrome film was and where the name comes from.  I'm assuming because kids these days don't know what Kodak Kodachrome film was, or film, or Kodak.


Ha!  Nice try Utah Department of Natural Resources because we managed to snag the last campsite in the park weeks ago.

I really loved this park.  It's known for these towering chimney spires that the National Geographic Society thought were so colorful back in 1949 that they named the park after the newly developed Kodachrome film that had just come out and was all the rage.  Not the Paul Simon song of the same name which I sang till Fred begged me to stop.


Petrified tree trunk?  Don't be silly, it's a sedimentary pipe composed of fine grained sandstone from the Entrada Formation deposited during the mid-to-late Jurassic Period.


Beautiful hikes here and the best weather we have had so far.  Still fairly windy but the skies are starting to clear and it's getting warmer.  Most of the trails here are pretty short but it's a great place to stay to explore the area including Bryce Canyon and the slot canyons about an hour away.


Peaceful spot


Fred has mastered dutch oven cooking.  Enchilada casserole, yummo!


There are about 70 of these spires, fingers, chimneys or whatever you wanna call them in the Park.  We photographed about 60 of them but I'll spare you.


Whoops, there's some more


Last one, I promise


Who knew Cousin It had retired in Utah


What you can't tell from this photo is that this place is crawling, er I mean hopping, with jackrabbits


It's the Grosvenor Double Arch, kinda like a double rainbow 'cept different

We had three great days here and I definitely hope to come back here when we have more time because it's so close to Bryce Canyon and the whole of the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  Just book way in advance otherwise it's hopeless.

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Capitol Reef National Park

We have had no cell service, no internet, no wifi, no TV, nothing for over a week.  It's like we're living like animals.  Animals that can't post blogs.  Anyway, where was I.

Peddle, peddle, peddle, peddle as fast as we can to get to Capitol Reef National Park from Mesa Verde because we know that there is only one campground in the Park and we are determined to stay in it just like we did eight years ago.  My memories of the place are all good, really good.  Peaceful, beautiful campground right next to the Fremont River, biking long rides all by ourselves.  But, here's the deal, it's first-come, first-serve, hence our hurried pace.

We couldn't help ourselves though when we crossed the bridge over the Colorado River.  Too picturesque not to stop, and you can do cartwheels down the center lane if you want.


Nobody on the road, nobody passing us by.  We got this.  School's not even out yet, right?


Quick nerd shot of the entrance before we get our perfect campsite.  But wait, what's that, no place to park at the Visitor Center.  WTH, campground full!  Oh, the humanity.  This cannot be, let's check at the actual campground.  I give the camp host credit, he didn't actually laugh when we asked if the campground was, in fact, full.  According to him it was full since 9 a.m.  If I knew how to insert a frowny face emoji I would.

So, we were forced into an RV Park in the town of Torrey 9 miles outside the National Park.  To add insult to injury, when I opened the Bambi up a dozen eggs, a quart of yogurt and the pickles were all over the floor.  The fridge door had come open at some point and just dumped the contents onto our rug.  Gross!  A dozen broken eggs mixed with yogurt and pickle juice is not as much fun to clean up as you would think.

RV Parks are our last resort unless we need to do laundry but we are intrepid pioneers at this point so we wiped our tears and soldiered on.

Maybe it's like I said and school is already out or maybe it's because it's the centennial of the National Parks but, yikes, the park is crowded.  Not Yellowstone or Yosemite crowded, but still when we came here 8 years ago it was a paradise.  We pretty much had the run of the place with no one on the road, at the campsites, or on the trails.  But now, jeesh.

Ok, enough whining.  We were stuck in a different kind of Park, RV vs. National for 3 days and that was that.  So we got up early every day at the crack and guess what?  We mostly had the trails and roads to ourselves.  Including the most popular hike in the park.




Yeah, just so you know, that's not Hickman's Bridge one of the most popular hikes here.  As we walked the trail around 7:00 a.m. we only encountered one other hiker who was going in the opposite direction, and he was basically like "Oh, you just missed the best light, it was beautiful, gorgeous, amazing, just 10 minutes ago".  So we get there and we are like "Really?" this is kinda meh, whatever let's take a bunch of pictures anyway.  Yeah, we are basically idiots, cuz that's not Hickman's Bridge, it's a little further along.  We stopped too soon.

I googled it after the hike and we, very briefly, considered rehiking it, but then we drove past the parking lot later and it was completely full, so, much like Bush 43, we declared this mission accomplished.

We did several hikes short hikes in the park.


Anasazi selfies

The Fremont River hike starts out easy, peasy along the river where you'll likely encounter birds and kids playing hide and seek and grandmas with walkers, but then it starts climbing up a narrow trail straight up till you reach panoramic overlooks of Fruita.  Fruita was a Mormon settlement where they grew, wait for it, .....fruit.


Yellow-breasted Chat





That green valley is Fruita and if you hit it at the right time of year, you can pick your own apples, peaches, and pears but it was too early for us.

Notom-Bullfrog Road and Burr Trail

If you look online and read about this road, you probably wouldn't take it. The descriptions include words like harrowing, scary, rough, hair-raising.  Well, I'm here to tell you quit being a wuss because not a hair was raised on my head.  It's not that bad and I know because I am a wuss.  Fred has dragged me down way more scary roads than this one.

Here's the deal.  All of Capitol Reef National Park is part of the 100 mile wrinkle in the earth called the Waterpocket Fold.  It's a geology thing, look it up you might learn something for God's sake.  The Notom-Bullfrog Road gets you the best looks at the fold but be forewarned it's 34 miles of unpaved, bumpy, washboard road.  But, hey you'll get a nice redneck massage outta the deal so there's that.  I made Fred stop every few miles because the desert was in full bloom and what's better than that.  Nothing.







The Grand Staircase is not something Scarlett descended in Gone with the Wind.  Nope, it's the massive rock step-down from the high desert plateaus all the way down to the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  Lots of grand things out this way.

The turnoff to the Burr Trail is where things start to get really interesting.  The switchbacks ascend 800 ft in half a mile.


That sign says 10 mph which is kind of a joke because no way can you go that fast


Hard to capture how twisty this road is, but once on the other side, we rewarded ourselves with a peanut butter sandwich lunch and a walk down a quiet, unmarked trail alongside a stream called Deer Creek.


On our last day we cheated and did 3 easy hikes.  Goosenecks, Sunset Point and Grand Wash.





I'll really miss Capitol Reef.  It's been 8 years since we were here and probably be another 8 or more before we return and you know it erodes every day so by the time I come back it could be a big 'ol pile of rocks.  Not that I could tell the difference actually.

Every night as we drove back through the town of Torrey I nagged Fred to slow down because there was a cop car parked on the side of the road.  By the third night I got suspicious so I had him pull up along side the car.


Yep, that's a mannequin.  Well played City of Torrey, well played.

Monday, May 23, 2016

Austin to Mesa Verde

I know what you're thinking, you're thinking that mid-May is a great time of year to visit the National Parks in Utah, hang out, do a little hiking.  Well, you're wrong.  Mostly wrong anyway because guess what little tidbit you didn't know when you planned this trip?  Schools in Utah, filled with thousands upon thousands of smiling little Mormon children are already out for summer.  I assume it's so they can harvest alfalfa or otherwise engage in activities that don't involve caffeine, but regardless they and their loving parents are now joining us at the National Parks and on our little hikes and most annoyingly in our preferred campsites.

Aaargh!  That is why you are wrong.  Another reason you might be wrong?  The weather in spring is unpredictable and it might not cooperate with your daydreams about hiking in warm sunshine and light breezes.  It might instead decide that you would have more fun if it was cold, or even better rainy and cold.  Even better than that cold, raining, snowing, with wind gusts of 40 mph and for a short while over an icy mountain pass, also hailing.

But I digress.  First things first.  We left Austin on May 16th after several sloggy days of schlepping crap to the Bambi while getting rained on.  Family commitments prevented my normal fretting and list making and double checking and I ended up just pretty much chucking everything in the camper and Fred drove like a trucker on meth for 11 hours to Santa Rosa, New Mexico.




We didn't even bother to unhook, see those storm clouds in the distance.  Yep, the weather is about to get pretty crappy.


Two things struck me about our stay here.  One, we got the last available spot and, two the clouds started rolling in and it got damn cold.  Why on earth would this little state park be crowded on a Monday with threatening weather.  Hmmm.

Sure enough, as we drove toward Taos early the next morning a steady rain began and the higher in elevation we went the worse it got.  Then it began to snow and hail and temps dropped into the 30s.  Did I mention the wind gusts?  


Lucky for us the snow and hail stopped in Taos but not the rain, cold and wind.

Also, lucky that Fred had made reservations at an RV park right next door to a large micro-brewery.


Coincidence?  I think not.

I love Taos, I do.  We have been here several times.  If you can avoid the kitsch selling, dream catching, crystal healing, kokopeli obsessed residents you will be rewarded by the real beauty of Taos, it's micro-breweries.

After some fine New Mexican chilies and some short hikes through the sage brush, we were ready to move on to our first of several National Park visits.  Mesa Verde.


Nice, quiet, cold hike through the sagebrush


Rio Grande River Gorge


The hotline over the gorge is for people whose spouses listen to nonstop Grateful Dead 


Great spot for fiery dinner


Mesa Verde National Park

Just like the first ancestral Puebloans, we settled into the last camping spot in the only RV campsite in the Park, and just like those ancient peoples we left after a short stay.  In our case, not because of drought or crop failures or socio-political problems but because the campsites at our next stop, Capitol Reef National Park, are first-come, first-serve.

We did drive to all the ruins but we have been here a couple of times before and, well, guess what?  The ruins look exactly like they did those first two times.  About the only new thing this time, is that the people who know about these kinds of things have decided to stop calling them Anazasi ruins because apparently that's a Navajo word and the ancient Puebloans were not Navajo.


Not sure if you can tell but there is a coiled, green garden hose off to the far right which either indicates that the indians were more advanced than current science has acknowledged, or that one of rangers is at home with a nagging feeling that he left something at work today


Wait, is that blue skies I see?


Nope, by afternoon the clouds gathered again


I hope to have a whole wall of these one of these days


Bear with us because we won't have internet access for a while